Rollin' Across Japan Part 4: Okayama

When you've rolling across Japan on the local trains, having to make half a dozen stops, you need to plan.  Know what line, what time, where to get on and off.  Sometimes, though, if you're feeling energetic, you can get ahead of yourself, catch a quick transfer faster than you thought possible, and before you know it you're one hour ahead of schedule, well on your way to your next destination when an alternate-universe, more lethargic version of yourself is sitting bored stiff on a platform somewhere.

So, I rolled into Okayama City, the terminus for the time being, with time to burn before my next scheduled train was due to head to Hiroshima.  My bags on my back, I set off at a brisk pace towards Korakuen, one of the top-three gardens in Japan (along with Kenrokuen in Kanazawa, already visited, and Kairakuen in Mito, the only one I'm yet to visit yet the one closest to where I live).

My verdict: it's a big fat 'meh'.

Don't get me wrong: it's a BEAUTIFUL garden.  But here's the thing: the big attraction of Korakuen are the wide, sweeping lawns.  With the exception of a few scattered spotlights, these lawns are devoid of features.  Now, I can see why this is a big deal for the Japanese tourist: sweeping, open lawns are very ununusual in the Japanese sculpted-garden - indeed, they are rare full-stop.  So I can see why it's seen as special.  But, to my western-born eyes, it seemed like just your average open-access English flower park.  Sure, there were other things besides: columns of tea-leaf bushes, waterfalls and water features, and the whole thing is looked over by the impressive Okayama Castle, but while I was satisfied, I couldn't help feeling underwhelmed, especially after the breathtaking Kenrokuen of Kanazawa.  It's not even especially big, either: I thought I'd have to rush around with my precious hour to spare, but I comfortably strolled around Korakuen with time to spare.

Perhaps it's my fault.  Perhaps my brain was frazzled by the endless train journeys or pre-occupied with my aching feet, and I have heard that the garden is best viewed in the evening when it is lit up.  But I can't help feeling that the accolade of 'Top 3' is an over-inflated claim, especially in a country such as Japan which is full of classic Japanese gardens.


Worth visiting?  Yes, absolutely.  Maybe if you go there with an open mind, it will seem better, and of course it's nice to tick one of the 'Great Gardens' off the list.


Anyway, time was of the essence.  I bolted back to the train station and trundled away to my next destination: Hiroshima.